“How can I best describe Tallinn?” I asked my travel colleague.
“Well it’s one of the best preserved Medieval cities in Europe” he replied.
“Yes I know,” I said, “but I think I might need something slightly sexier than that.”
“I honestly don’t know how it gets sexier than that”, was his incredulous response!
And in his defence, Tallinn does make restored Medieval cities in Europe look pretty sexy.
For a start, there’s all those lovely historic coloured buildings and red roofs that make a shot of this capital an instant hit on just about anyone’s Instagram feed.
Then there’s all the great eating, drinking and sauna spots here, which boast a level of sophistication and Scandinavian cool not many expect.
And finally, there’s the gritty grey urban chic of an ex-Soviet city, regenerated into a hipster haven, which stands the perfect distance from the beaten track to be both accessible, enticing and exciting.
And that is how I’d best describe Tallinn!
So if you haven’t experienced it yet, here’s why Tallinn in Estonia is not only one of the best preserved Medieval cities in Europe, but also surprisingly quite a cool and sexy capital too!
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My trip to Estonia was sponsored by Visit Estonia but, as always, all views are my own.
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First Trip to Tallinn
For the 2 of us travelling Estonia together for 4 days (after a fortuitous press trip meet in Sri Lanka earlier this year had resulted in us actually becoming friends), this was both of our first trips to this Baltic country.
Given the numbers of countries we’ve each visited, it seemed quite amazing that this small nation on the edge of the Baltic Sea hadn’t yet made it onto either of our travelled country lists; but so far it had evaded us.
Not sure if I’d been put off by the stag-do image of Tallinn, or the supposed need to visit in the ever-so-short northern European summer months, I quickly ascertained during my trip that both these reasons should have been retired a long time ago!
For a start, the stag do-ers have now moved on (goodness know where to, but Estonia’s rapidly growing economy has meant the beer here is no longer cheap enough for them, thank goodness!) and for seconds, my visit in November quickly showed me that sightseeing here in the crowd-free, colder months, is not only wonderfully calm, but quiet and cosy too.
So jumping onboard the Air Baltic flight from Gatwick direct to Tallinn in 3 hours, the stage was set for a fantastic first trip to Estonia’s capital.
Old Town
We arrived into Tallinn late in the evening, but wonderfully, the airport here is the closest to just about any European capital centre I’ve encountered and within 20 minutes we’ve pulled up outside our accommodation, the brand new Nunne Boutique Hotel.
Located in the walls of the historic city, when I say in here I really mean it, because this hotel literally incorporates the Medieval wall of historic Tallinn into its structure, including directly into some of the rooms!
Not only that, but the view from my Suite, which has a stunning sightline of the Old Town ramparts themselves, makes the perfect place to take in my morning Nespresso.
Fully caffeinated and fed from a fantastic breakfast, it was time to join our guided tour of this wonderfully preserved Medieval city – one of the best in Europe I’d heard!
And the fantastic tour guide, Eva-Maria, from Nordic Experience was the one to show us the ropes.
Despite being pretty fresh outside, I was getting fully hygge vibes as I wrapped up warm in several layers plus oversized scarf for the crisp air and blue sky.
We started off by ascending the wonderful tower at St Nicholas’ Church and Museum.
Now certainly more of a museum than a church, this Lower Town spot has been recently renovated to include a fantastic glass elevator that whisks you up to the tower for 360 degree encased views over the historic city, ancient walls, red roofs and coastline of Tallinn.
The perfect place to orientate yourself and spot some of this city’s classic landmarks, the exhibition downstairs also includes Estonia’s most expensive art piece, the 15th century, ominously named but beautifully painted, Dance of Death.
From here, we set off to explore those landmarks spotted from the tower, including the iconic Russian Orthodox Church, which was built in the 1900s and can be spotted across the city skyline thanks to its impressive 11 bells which sit 30m up in the air.
Opposite we find the Parliament Buildings – pink in colour and home to the 101 members of the country’s government, including the current female leader.
There’s also the Dome Church (otherwise known as St Mary’s Cathedral) and the Patkuli Viewing Platform, all of which are homed in the smaller Upper Town, reached on foot, through the atmospheric staircased street known as the Short Leg.
For Old Tallinn is a city of 2 levels, and between them they boast a mighty 1.6km of city wall and 26 remaining towers – not bad given construction here started in the 1300s!
Together, both the Upper and Lower Towns became a UNESCO-listed World Heritage Site in 1997.
Down in the Lower Town, accessed via the Long Leg, we find the Town Hall and main square, which boasts the oldest continually functioning pharmacy in Europe – it’s been running on this spot since 1442.
Amidst the modern day medicines, traditional potions and heritage costumes of the staff, we find an amusing photo stand-in piece and spend longer than we should taking ridiculous photos.
From here, we continue on for hot chocolate and rum at Pierre’s Chocolaterie, before making our way through Katherine’s passage – the ideal place to pick up locally-made boutique souvenirs.
Finally, we finish up in the 24 hour flower market – the perfect late-purchase spot for those who forget anniversaries or birthdays until the early hours!
Telliskivi
But don’t be fooled by its age – Tallinn is also a very modern city.
Buzzing with a youthful vibrancy, the capital’s transformation under Estonia’s strong economic growth, has been hugely spurred on by the money ploughed into the tech scene here.
A growing digital hub, Estonia boasts some seriously fast internet speeds and has become a mecca for digital nomads and start-ups alike.
And like all good tech-savvy communities, Tallinn needs a tech-savvy space.
Enter Telliskivi!
A former industrial area, collected around the railway, in 2006 the transformation began to make this rundown, gritty corner into a hipster heaven.
And they’ve certainly done well!
Now home to between 300 and 500 small businesses – all focused on local, sustainable and unique concepts – Telliskivi is an exciting ecosystem of progressive businesses, brands and recreational activities combined.
From top restaurants like F-Hoone and Fotografiska to independent bakers, brewers and baristas, not to mention some fantastic street art, public space creation and local markets, this place throbs with an on-trend buzz that draws the hipster-hungry crowds in.
So I, of course, loved it!
Especially the Estonian gin-tasting at Junimperium, where 7 gin samples and a tour later, I thought Telliskivi was just about the best place I’d ever been!
Noblessner
They say not to drink and then go into a sauna, but luckily we’re in Estonia and this rule seemed not to apply.
Despite the earlier robust gin tasting, I’m given a lovely local craft beer when I arrive at IgluPark and am nestled into the warm relaxation area of the wooden sauna cabin.
Hosting groups of up to 10 people, these large cabins, found on the edge of the Baltic Sea in regenerated dockland area Noblessner, are the perfect way to round off the evening.
Available to rent for up to 3 hours, this is a great one to share with friends as you sweat and chat the night away.
In 2023, Estonia has celebrated the Year of the Sauna (if you haven’t yet seen Smoke Sauna Sisterhood make sure you do) and, after a strong rotation of wood-fired heat, serious sweating, traditional whisking (where the body is batted with a bunch of birch leaves) and cold plunges in the Baltic Sea, I felt and well truly celebrated!
New Town
Satisfied and soporific in a way you only can be after roasting by open fire by 3 hours, it was then time to head to Tallinn’s New Town for a final stop.
The Radisson Collection Hotel was our home for the night here and despite not usually being a fan of chain hotels, I have to say the excellent restaurant, fantastic spa facilities and my wonderful room views of the Old Town from the 15th floor, had me sold!
The newly opened PoCo Museum was the final piece of the Tallinn itinerary, which again showcased another side to this trendy city.
A private collection, on display to the public for the first time, the Poco Museum opened in June this year and is home to an astounding collection of Banksy, Warhol, Herring, Brainwash and more.
Boasting an impressive 340 pieces, the artwork here is not displayed chronologically, but rather curated to stimulate conversation, as our fantastic guide Helen explains.
And building conversations is exactly what the PoCo Museum and my time in Tallinn did!
After all, if you want a start a real debate, then I highly recommend asking how best to describe this city.
It might just open a whole can of worms!
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Mini Travel Guide to Tallinn
How to Get There?
Fly to Tallinn from across Europe with easyJet and AirBaltic.
As always I use Skyscanner to get the best deals.
When to Visit?
Head to Tallinn in the summer for long, sunny sightseeing days, or in the winter for cosy saunas and snowy views.
How Long to Stay?
I recommend a stay of 2-4 nights in Tallinn.
How to Get Around?
Use local trains or buses to get around the country from Tallinn.
You can also hire a car – I recommend Discover Cars for the job.
What to Pack?
Check out my complete Estonia packing list (for summer or winter trips to Tallinn) here.
Travel Insurance
World Nomads offers simple and flexible travel insurance. Buy at home or while travelling and claim online from anywhere in the world.
Alternatively, if you’re a long-term traveller, digital nomad or frequent remote worker seeking travel health cover, check out Safetywing’s Nomad Insurance policies.
Travel Money
The easy way to spend abroad with real exchange rates, no markups and no sneaky transaction fees, you can use your Wise card just like a debit card in Tallinn… and it links easily with Google and Apple pay – sold! Grab yours here.
PIN IT TO PINTEREST!
So while Tallinn is certainly one of the best preserved Medieval cities in Europe – it also gets a lot sexier than that!
The cobbled quaintness and city spire splendour, contrasted with the hipster-happening-Scandi-sophistication of its food and cultural scene, make this the perfect blend.
And from Telliskivi to Noblessner, saunas to sustainable start-ups, Tallinn is all for the taking… sooner rather than later if I were you!
