There’s something effortlessly romantic about gliding through the Swiss Alps scenery that is hard to put into words.
Crested mountain peaks peer down on flowing glaciers, as historic viaducts slide past in a glorious spectacle that feel like something out of a movie.
And if you ask me, that’s what travel is all about!
The Bernina Express was a huge bucket item tick for me.
An here’s all you need to know if you want to check it off your list too…
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What is the Bernina Express?
Thought to be one of the most scenic train journeys in the world, the Bernina Express is a panoramic railway ride from Chur in Switzerland to Tirano in Italy.
Passing through the Alps, it provides stunning scenery of the peaks and valleys of this European mountain range.
The Bernina Express train runs along a line known as the Rhaetian Railway, which dates back to the 1910s, and was UNESCO-listed in 2008 thanks to its unique route and engineering achievements.
A technological feat of the time, the Rhaetian Railway covers 122km of track, reaching of height of 2225m, at the Bernina Pass, before descending to Tirano just 429m above sea level.
Enroute, it traverses 126 bridges, past amazing alpine views, and through 55 mountain tunnels, taking in both the famous Brusio Circular and Landwasser viaducts.
An engineering marvel, it traverses the 1824m difference in altitude (which includes a 7% gradient incline) between Ospizo Bernina and Tirano in just 22km without rack-and-pinion technology!
For those of us who aren’t train aficionados, what this means in travel terms, is that the Bernina Express provides a breathtakingly beautiful mountain journey along one of the world’s most unique railway lines.
It is, in fact, the only the Swiss railway to cross the Alps, so if you want to tick off some of Europe’s most breathtaking scenery in comfort, this is the way to do it!
Key Things to Know About the Bernina Express
- The Bernina Express covers a distance of 144km.
- The route travels from Chur in Switzerland to Tirano in Italy, or visa-versa.
- It takes roughly 4 hours to complete the full journey.
- There are numerous stops along the way, including the famous Swiss ski resort of St Moritz, and the historic Swiss town of Poschiavo, where you can disembark or board the train.
- You can enjoy the Bernina Express as an independent traveller – no need to take a tour.
- Tickets should be booked weeks / months in advance, especially in the peak season from May to September.
- It’s easiest to book tickets online. There are multiple websites offering tickets (details given below about the best options).
- There is 1 train daily, in each direction, during low season from November to April – departing Chur at 8:17am.
- There are 2 trains daily, in each direction, during the high season May to October – departing Chur at 8:17am and 1:28pm.
- There are 1st and 2nd class carriages available.
- There is no dining cart onboard.
- There is luggage storage space available on the train for suitcases and large bags.
- I recommended spending the night in Chur before your departure, especially if you leave in the morning.
- Train stations at both Chur and Tirano are centrally located and easy to walk to.
- While there are no border controls as you pass from Switzerland to Italy, you will need to ensure you have your passport / relevant travel docs with you.
Best Time to Ride the Bernina Express
The Bernina Express is stunning all year round, with different seasons bringing their own delights – from the green buds of spring, to the orange leaves of autumn.
High Season: May to October
Peak season, during the summer months from May to September, is the most popular time to ride the Bernina Express.
This is when you’ll need to book further in advance, think 3 months ahead of time (90 days is the maximum), as tickets sell out fast.
Tickets are also more expensive during this time, but there are 2 Bernina Express trains per day, departing from both Chur and Tirano, which gives you a little more flexibility.
Low Season: November to April
For budget-conscious travellers, riding the Bernina Express in the low season is likely to be a better option,
At this time, tickets are cheaper and you don’t need to book several months in advance to secure a ticket (although 4-6 weeks in advance is still advised).
My Top Choice: March
While I’m sure the views form the Bernina are beautiful in summer – with the green alps and meadows in full bloom – personally I chose to ride the Bernina in early Spring.
It’s hard to think of a more magical sight for me than the snowy crested peaks of the Alps contrasted against a cold, crisp blue sky… and when I rode the Bernina Express in early March, that’s exactly what I got!
Also fantastic was that both Chur and Tirano were not covered in snow at this time.
This made getting around and exploring these towns wonderfully easy, whilst still being able to enjoy the white-tipped Alps from the train.
Buying Bernina Express Tickets
Tickets for the Bernina Express can be bought online via the Rhaetian Railway website, through Trainline, or by calling +41 81 288 65 65.
Book in Advance
The key thing to know about getting your Bernina Express tickets is that you need to buy them in advance.
In low season, I’d advise 4-6 weeks ahead of your departure date.
In high season, you’ll want to book 2-3 months before you go.
Journey Ticket + Seat Reservation
There are 2 parts to reserving your tickets for the Bernina Express.
The 1st part is your journey ticket and the 2nd is your seat reservation.
Both these tickets are compulsory to board the train – you can’t do so without either of them.
Seat Reservation
The first thing to get is your seat reservation – these are available 6 months ahead of time.
Seat reservations are mandatory for the Bernina Express for each and every passenger.
Even passengers with Swiss Travel Passes, or Euro / Interrail Passes, require seat reservations (keep reading for more info).
When it comes to purchasing your seat reservation, you’ll need to opt for First or Second Class (see pros and cons of these below).
Journey Ticket
In addition to your seat reservation, you’ll also need to buy a journey ticket for the Bernina Express.
These are only available 60 days ahead of your departure date.
If you have a Swiss Travel Pass, or a Euro / Interrail Pass valid for Switzerland, these can be used as your journey ticket.
You do not need a Euro / Interrail Pass valid for Italy to catch the Bernina Express, even if you finish in Tirano.
However, you will need a pass valid for Italy if you plan to continue your travels in this country (and not return directly back to Switzerland).
Learn more about catching the Bernina Express with a Swiss Travel Pass here, or with a Euro / Interrail Pass here.
If you don’t have one of these passes, you’ll need to get a journey ticket online or on the phone to ride the Bernina Express.
When you have both your journey ticket and your seat reservation, you’ll need to save both of them (plus any rail passes you have), as all will need to be presented on the train to the inspectors.
Which Booking Method to Opt for
Rhaetian Railway
The Rhaetian Railway website is the official site of the Bernina Express, so you can get a lot info on this website.
You can also book both journey tickets and seat reservations here, and many people feel reassured by only using one provider to reserve the whole journey.
Seat reservation prices are fixed, but journey tickets can be more expensive using this website compared to other options (see below).
However, Rhaetian Railway do offer some late minute deals.
The site is available in English, however it can be clunky and slow.
If you already have a Swiss Travel Pass or Interrail Pass, it’s best to book your tickets using this site, as it allows you to buy just a seat reservation.
Trainline
Trainline offers a streamlined booking platform, but does charge a booking fee.
Handily, it books your journey ticket and seat reservation in one bundled package, simplifying the process.
However, if you already have a Rail Pass, this won’t be the best option for you – as you’ll overpay.
When using Trainline, ensure you book the train marked PE BEX if you want the official Bernina Express, otherwise you’ll get just get the regular regional train (see below for more info).
Phone
Calling is best if you want to discuss your Bernina Express travel options in person.
Ticket Prices
Seat reservation prices are fixed depending on the season.
Journey tickets vary in cost, (they are dynamic like airline fares), and depend on how many tickets have already been sold.
Seat Reservations
Seat reservations start from CHF 32 in low season and CHF 36 in high season.
Children under 6 can sit on an adult lap and avoid paying a seat reservation.
Children aged 6-16 must buy a full-priced seat reservation.
Journey Tickets
These can be booked through the methods outlined above (Rhaetian Railway, Trainline and phone), as well as through…
- Deutsche Bahn – the German rail network sells tickets for trains in many European countries including Switzerland
- SBB – the Swiss rail network
2nd class journey tickets starts from CHF 33 and 1st class journey tickets from CHF 56.
SBB had the cheapest fares I could find – around half of those shown on the Rhaetian Railway website – which were CHF 66 one way in 2nd class, and CHF 113 one way in 1st class.
Children under 6 travel free, without a seat.
Children aged 6-16 pay a half fare.
Last Minute Deals
The Rhaetian Railway website also offers last minute deals, during the low season from November to April.
These only apply to return, 2nd class routes, and are only available 6 days before departure date.
Costs start from CHF 89 and can be a great option if you’re travelling in low season.
First or Second Class: Which to Choose
Both first and second class seats onboard the Bernina Express have power sockets and wifi.
Although the wifi was not working on my journey.
If you ever find a train journey where wifi is working in Europe… let me know!
First Class
I was lucky enough to travel in 1st class on my Bernina Express journey, which was a really special treat.
In 1st class, there is more space around the seats – great for getting up and moving around during the 4 hour journey.
The seats are leather.
The real selling point of 1st class however, are the huge panoramic windows that give you amazing views out of the vast Alps scenery.
Although it’s worth pointing out that these large windows do make the carriage very hot, and they also increase the glare on any photos you may want to take.
There was ample luggage storage in my 1st class carriage, as well as a dedicated toilet.
There were also 2 spaces that were accessible beyond the carriage – one had the bathroom cubicle and a huge glass window without seats in front of it – great for unobstructed views.
The other was located between carriages and had a smaller sliding window, and a fold down seat underneath – ideal for getting photos without the glare from any window glass.
I also got a free juice and free chocolates during the 1st class ride.
1st Class Pros
- Huge, panoramic glass windows great for expansive views
- More carriage space, with larger seats and more legroom
- Leather seats
- Private bathroom for carriage
- Free juice and chocolates
1st Class Cons
- Large windows can make carriages hot
- Glare from large windows makes photo-taking tricker
- Only 1 small sliding window between carriages to snap pictures without glare
- More expensive seat reservations
Second Class
There were definitely more seats crammed into 2nd class, with less legroom, but of course, tickets are cheaper.
The windows are smaller than in 1st class by a significant margin, but some of them do open i.e. (slide half way down), which means you are able to take photographs without the reflected glare from the glass.
That said, it’s pot luck trying to guess if your seat reservation will be near an openable window, so you may well be limited to a fix pane option.
2nd Class Pros
- Chance to sit near a slidable window
- Cooler carriage due to smaller windows than 1st class
- Cheaper seat reservations
2nd Class Cons
- Glare from fixed windows makes photos taking tricker (pot luck, if you get a seat near these or not)
- Less carriage space and legroom than 1st class
- Shared facilities with greater passenger numbers
- Fabric seats
10 Mistakes to Avoid on the Bernina Express
- Travelling in summer season – it’s more expensive, more crowded and you don’t get those gorgeous snowy views.
- Not booking in advance – even in low season, the Bernina Express tickets sell out.
- Not going from north to south – the most stunning part of the journey is as you near Italy, so it’s best to save this for last, by travelling from Chur to Tirano.
- Not arriving at least 15 mins before departure – you’ll want to get settled in and comfortable well before the train leaves.
- Not sitting on the right hand side of the train (when going from Chur to Tirano) – the views are definitely better on this side!
- Not bringing sunglasses and layers with you – it gets pretty bright and hot in the carriages due to the huge windows, so come prepared!
- Not finding out where the nearest sliding windows are for photos without the glare – check between carriages if you can’t find them!
- Not checking the route and having your camera at the ready for the viaduct shots – they pass in an instant and you’ll miss out if you’re not prepped.
- Not bringing own food and water – no dining cart is available onboard.
- Taking the Bernina Express return journey – if you’ve already done the panoramic ride once, just grab the regular regional train back to Chur for half the price instead.
Bernina Express vs Regional Train
When I said the Bernina Express was a panoramic train journey, I wasn’t joking!
What sets this train apart are the huge windows that dominate the carriage and mean taking in the expansive Alps views doesn’t get any easier!
It’s the perfect travel experience, with audio guides and comfy seats to accompany you on the ride.
However, it pays to know that regular regional trains also operate on the Rhaetian Railway.
Of course these don’t have huge windows, or any other fancy-pants tourist extras – they’re just regular trains – but they do run on exactly the same line as the Bernina Express and therefore do offer the same views – albeit through smaller windows!
Needless to say the regional Rhaetian Railway trains are also cheaper than the Bernina Express, so can be a great option if you want to enjoy this scenic ride for less.
6 Tips for Cheaper Bernina Express Journeys
- Travel in low season between November and April.
- Check Rhaetian Railway’s last minute deals via their website if booking late.
- Otherwise, book your seat reservation first though Rhaetian Railways and then book your journey ticket through SBB when you have a seat confirmed.
- Opt for 2nd class rather than 1st
- Take the regional train back to Chur if you want to return there.
- Otherwise, spend time in Tirano and Italy afterwards – it’s much cheaper than Switzerland!
@bigworldsmallpockets 10 Mistakes Avoid on the Bernina Express 🚂 ❄️ Travelling in summer season – it’s more expensive, more crowded and you don’t get those gorgeous snowy views. 🎟️ Not booking in advance – even in low season, the Bernina Express tickets sell out, so get your at least 2 months in ahead of time. ⬇️ Not going from north to south – the most stunning part of the journey is as you near Italy, so it’s best to save this for last, by travelling from Chur to Tirano. ⏰ Not arriving at least 15 mins before departure – you’ll want to get settled in and comfortable well before the train leaves. 🪑 Not sitting on the right hand side of the train – the views are definitely better on this side! 🕶️ Not bringing sunglasses and layers with you – it gets pretty bright and hot in the carriages due to the huge windows, so come prepared! 🪟 Not finding out where the nearest sliding windows are for photos to avoid the glare – check between carriages if you can’t find them! 📸 Not checking the route and having camera at the ready for the viaduct shots – they pass in an instant and you’ll miss out if you’re not prepped. 🚆 Taking the Bernina Express return journey – if you’ve already done the panoramic ride once, just grab the regular regional train back to Chur for half the price instead. 🇮🇹 Not spending time in Italy afterwards – way cheaper than Switzerland, Lake Como, the Alps and Milan are all easily accessible from the end point in Tirano, Italy. #gifted #berninaexpress #berninaexpresstrain #berninaexpress🇨🇭 #berninaexpress🇨🇭🚞 #swisstrains #swisstravel #alps #alpsmountains #alpstrain #alpstravel #uktravelblogger #femaletravelbloggers #traintravel #traintrip ♬ original sound – Big World Small Pockets
Before the Bernina Express
I highly recommend spending the night in Chur before you board the Bernina express – especially if you’ve opted for the morning departure.
Chur is the oldest town in Switzerland and an absolutely gorgeous spot, complete with medieval old town, Alps views and some great street art.
Check out my top things to do in Chur for some inspiration about what to see and where to eat here.
I recommend spending the night at historic Hotel Stern, which is right in the centre – easy to walk to from the train station.
To get to Chur from outside Switzerland, it’s best to fly to Zurich.
From there you can catch a direct train to Chur in under 2 hours, which costs as little as £15.
I booked using Trainline.
After the Bernina Express
If you do catch the Bernina Express return to Chur from Tirano, you’ll have time for a quick lunch in Italy before getting back on the train.
If you’re taking the regional train back to Chur (advised if you want to return to eastern Switzerland), you have a bit more flexibility and time to explore, as regional trains run every hour until 7pm.
If you’re only taking the Bernina Express in one direction and finishing in Tirano, as I did, then it’s worth spending the rest of the day exploring this cute Italian town.
I also stayed the night in Tirano and highly recommend Hotel Bernina, which is well-priced and excellently-located.
The next day, you can then catch an Italian TrenItalia train direct to Milan Centrale or Varenna-Esino if you want to visit Lake Como.
Both journeys are bookable through Trainline.
Otherwise, hop on the 4€ local bus to nearby Aprica, which is a fab local ski resort nearby I really enjoyed.
Buy bus tickets, in person, at the Tirano Bus Station, which is located just behind the train station (accessed via an pedestrianised underpass).
Bernina Express Bus
If you want to return to Switzerland after the Bernina, but are keen to head to the south of the country, rather than back to the east, the Bernina Express bus is a handy option.
This travels from Tirano in Italy to Lugano in southern Switzerland.
The service runs from February through November and passes along the shores of Lake Como.
The bus departs Tirano at 2:20pm and arrives into Lugano around 5:30pm (so the total journey time is around 3 hours).
Tickets need to be booked separately to the Bernina Express train and cost CHF 14 in low season and CHF 16 in high season.
Children under 6 are free, and those aged 6-16 pay a half fare.
Is the Bernina Express Worth It?
In my opinion, the Bernina Express is 100% worth it!
If you want to enjoy some stunning Swiss scenery, in comfort and style, you can’t beat it!
It was a huge bucket list tick for me, and definitely something I’d advise for train, mountain and scenery lovers alike.
When are you planning to check it off your travel itinerary?
Switzerland Travel Tips
Travel Insurance
World Nomads offers simple and flexible travel insurance. Buy at home or while travelling and claim online from anywhere in the world.
Alternatively, if you’re a long-term traveller, digital nomad or frequent remote worker seeking travel health cover, check out Safetywing’s Nomad Insurance policies.
Swiss eSIM
I recommend Holafly.
Get 5% off with my exclusive discount code: BIGWORLDSMALLPOCKETS.
Luggage Storage
Store luggage for the day, or longer in Switzerland with LuggageHero.
Travel Money
Switzerland uses the Swiss France (CHF).
I always travel Europe with my Wise card, which makes spending abroad cheaper, thank to real exchange rates and no sneaky transaction or ATM fees.
Wise cards works just like a debit card and link easily with Google and Apple pay.
Grab yours here.
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My Bernina Express journey was sponsored by Rhaetian Railways but, as always, all views are my own.
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