“Which language is easiest for you,” asks the lady behind the reception desk, “German, French, Italian or English?”
English I reply sheeplshly, forever embarrassed by the poor school French and Spanish I can just about deploy to conjure up a basic sentence.
“Great”, she says thrusting a key the size of my shoulder bag into my hand, “your room is on the 2nd floor, you get a free welcome drink and there’s ear plugs in the bathroom for the church bells”.
It has to be said, it’s been a while since I stayed in a hotel where I was given a physical key (the last place I stayed used digital wristbands for room entrance!), where I was asked what language I speak best and where the church bells peeled so frequently I was required ear plugs, but this, I guess this is rural Switzerland!
I say I guess, because it’s my first trip to this country, so truthfully, I don’t actually have a point of comparison.
Unbelievably, out of the 26 countries I’ve visited in Europe, Switzerland has so far failed to woo me – likely because it’s not renowned for its small pocket friendliness.
But here, in the villages of Valais, in the south of the country, it feels like there might at least be some medium-pocket-potential!
I’ve got here after an early morning flight with Swiss Air direct to Geneva, from where I quickly hopped on a train direct from the airport down to Sierre – a large town in the Valais region, care of my Swiss Travel Pass which allows me unlimited transport on trains, trams and buses across the country.
I quickly discover, it’s a huge money saver, despite the hefty upfront price.
From Sierre, it’s then just a hop, skip and jump (aka one stop) to the town of Salgesch, where I’ve wandered through this floral-window-boxed town to the central Hotel Arkanum.
So central in fact, that it’s right next to the town church, complete with hourly bell tolls (hence the complimentary ear plugs), the local grocery store, the town bakery, and the surprisingly pleasant Green Lizard circular trail, which I quickly embark on as a post-journey leg stretch.
…and also before the wine.
Because looking at the trip itinerary, there’s going to be a lot of wine.
Valais is, after all, the wine capital of Switzerland – a fact quite evident after the miles of vineyards I’ve been following through the train window on my way here.
And Salgesch is right in the heart of Valais’ wine lands.
The canton producing the most bottles in the whole country, Salgesch is located in the middle valley which, as the name suggests, straddles the centre of Valais and, less obviously, the border between the typically French and German speaking communities who live here.
In fact, in just one short stop on the train here from Sierre, I’ve crossed the Sinièse River and the linguistic boundary from French to German… although it’s still all largely double dutch to me!
With 300 days of a sunshine a year, Valais is one of the warmest and driest parts of the country, with the Alps decorating the backdrop of this sweeping green agriculture area; the grapes, like me, seem to love it.
We kick things off with a tour of Cave la Romaine, which lies sightly down the valley, and are given an exclusive tasting with local viticulture heavyweight, Johana.
While the cave de gare here, a former cellar room, has now been converted into tasting room amidst the 10 hectares, we’re actually being escorted up to the private Clos de Tsampehro, which sits just above.
In local patois, the name of this 3 hectare vineyard means “estate of pears” and it boasts breathtaking views down the valley – the perfect place to get my first taste of the Valais goods.
Here they concentrate on indigenous grape varieties (included ones almost abandoned in recent decades), as well as the use of gravity and naturally present yeast.
All sold on site, their first vintage was not produced until 2011, but the 2 owner friends are long-time aficionados.
Cave du Rhodan, just above Salgesch, approaches our tasting session with a more accessible and grounded ease.
A 3rd generation property, this 14 hectare winery has been organic and sustainably-focused for over 10 years, with passionate owners on hand to talk us through the vintages and tour the impressive cellar and bottling plant.
An easy stumble down the hill to Salgesch, tastings and visits here are bookable online all year round, for either 1hr or 2.5hrs slots.
With 55 grape varieties found in the appellation area of Valais, there’s a lot to get around, so the next day, I set off to Sierre, not via train this time, but on foot via the brilliant Wine Trail that runs directly from Salgesch.
Constructed in 1983, the trail tells the historic tale of wine growing in this region, traversing through vineyards between the 2 towns, and splitting into sections the story of this land and its community.
We learn about the labour force, the art the landscape has inspired, the bisse (the historic water irrigation canals, of which more than 100 still in operation) and that wine is always grown on the right bank of the River Rhone here in Valais.
Then there’s also the food.
With over 86 specialist products born from the region, including apricots, pears, milk and cheese, looking out for the distinctly branded ‘Savour de Valais’ (Valais flavours) product stamp is a must here.
Which is exactly what leads us to the amazing raclette lunch we devour when we reach Sierre and the charming spot of Chateau de Villa.
Served in the traditional way, with new potatoes kept warm in a wicker basket and a small plate of gherkins, the raclette man, who meticulously selects each of our cheeses before melting them perfectly onto our plates with panache, tells us he gets through 9 tonnes of raclette a year.
Which is almost the same weight as the Chateau de Villa wine list, from which we’re selected 3 stand-out whites.
Boasting the most extensive wine library in Switzerland, Chateau de Villa is a delightful place to eat, drink, meet and, well, enjoy life!
In the August sun, surrounded by the chatter of locals, now conversing in French, it’s hard to think of a better way to spend an afternoon.
But life isn’t all wine time (although with their 11am aperol routine here in Valais, you may be forgiven for thinking it is), so determined to put that to bed, it’s time to explore another distinct feature of this landscape – the charming Pfyn-Finges Natural Park.
If you’re restricted to public transport, then the rewarding day walk, following the Sentier Parc Natural from Sierre to Ersmatt is the one to enjoy.
One of the best birdwatching spots in Switzerland, and the biggest pine tree forest in the Alps, sprouting wild oregano, shimmering blue lakes and soaring historic aqueduct towers are waiting quietly to be discovered along the well-marked trails that meander along the bank of the Rhone River here.
Enroute the town of Leuk, which dates back to the Middle Ages when it was home to the somewhat self-entitled local cardinal, is the perfect place to enjoy lunch, before nipping into the tiny local church here to see the eerily stacked skulls of the mini catacombs.
The walk will then spit you out in the mountain village of Ersmatt – a German speaking settlement located some 1200m up in the Haut Valley where the Alps lean gently into view.
Local advocate, Edmund, has brought back the traditional rye baking methods of his ancestors here and, getting to learn the practise with his family kneeding around us, was a truly special, if not steamy and fiery activity!
Afterwards, don’t miss wandering around this unique village, learning how it safeguards its traditions, including those of building houses into the rock of the mountain, before heading on the train back to Sierre.
Unless you’re lucky enough of course to have tickets to a sold-out Tavolata of course!
Inspired by the Italians just across the border, and translating as a “cheerful table of friends”, these long table feasts, sometimes for as many as 200-300 people, stretch out through the vineyards of Valais, snaking between the grapes in a wine paired extravaganza framed perfectly by the darkening valley light and the orange August sun dipping slowly behind the Alps.
Whether it’s French, German, English or Italian we speak, we all know this is how the best days of a late summer adventure in Switzerland end…
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Quick Travel Guide to Valais, Switzerland
When to Visit?
Summer months from June through September are the best time to visit Valais.
How to Get There?
Flying to Geneva airport is closest and easiest.
I always recommend Skyscanner for the best deals on flights.
From the airport, or cental Geneva, you can then catch a direct train to Sierre.
How Long to Stay?
3-4 days is a good amount of time to explore the best of Valais.
How to Get Around?
I recommend grabbing a Swiss Travel Pass ahead of your journey.
The Half Fare Pass is also good for shorter stays.
These passes give you discounts / free travel across trains, buses and trams.
Travel Insurance
World Nomads offers simple and flexible travel insurance. Buy at home or while travelling and claim online from anywhere in the world.
Alternatively, if you’re a long-term traveller, digital nomad or frequent remote worker seeking travel health cover, check out Safetywing’s Nomad Insurance policies.
Travel Money
Switzerland uses the Swiss Franc (CHF).
I always travel Europe with my Wise card, which makes spending abroad cheaper thanks to real exchange rates and no sneaky transaction or ATM fees.
Wise cards works just like a debit card and it link easily with Google and Apple pay. Grab yours here.
eSIM for Switzerland
I recommend Holafly.
Get 5% off with my exclusive discount code: BIGWORLDSMALLPOCKETS.
PIN IT TO PINTEREST!
My trip to Switzerland was sponsored by Valais / Wallis Tourism Promotion but, as always, all views are my own.
This page contains affiliate links meaning Big World Small Pockets may receive a small commission on any purchases at no extra cost to you.
